5. Trip to South Korea – Welcome to Dramaworld

Gyeongbokgung Palace, and its fascinating history (South Korea)

Historical sites have always intrigued and fascinated me. Seeing these old or restored buildings, I cannot help but think about the people who walked those grounds in the past. What was a normal day-to-day within the walls of these architectural wonders? Therefor, I had to do a little digging into the history of Gyeongbokgung Palace, and share it with you.

Gyeongbokgung Palace is the largest among the Five Grand Palaces, (the others being Gyeonghuigung, Deoksugung, Changgyeonggung, Changdeokgung), built by the Joseon dynasty. In the past, it served as the main residence of the Imperial Family. Nowadays, the palace is open to the public. Visitors can take part in guided tours, or venture through the palace grounds on their own. The re-enactment of the ceremonial guard exchange by the main gate is especially popular among tourists.

So, without further ado, let’s take a look at the information available about this impressive palace.

In 1395, three years after the Joseon Dynasty was founded by King Taejo (birthname: Yi Seong-Gye), the construction of the main royal palace was completed. The palace was named Gyeongbokgung, ‘the Palace Greatly Blessed by Heaven.’

With Mount Bugaksan to its rear and Mount Namsan in the foreground, the site of Gyeongbokgung Palace was at the heart of Seoul. A location deemed auspicious according to the traditional practice of geomancy. In front of Gwanghwamun Gate, the main entrance to the palace, ran Yukjogeori, ‘Street of Six Ministries’ (today Sejongno), home to major government offices.

Along the central axis upon which Gwanghwamun Gate stood was the nucleus of the palace. This included the throne hall, reception hall, and the king’s residence. The government ministry district and main buildings of Gyeongbokgung Palace formed the heart of the capital city of Seoul and represented the sovereignty of the Joseon Dynasty.

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After all the palaces in the capital were razed by the Japanese during the Imjin War of 1595-1598, Changdeokgung, a secondary palace, was rebuilt and served as the main palace. Gyeongbokgung Palace was left derelict for the next 270 years.

It was finally reconstructed in 1867 by the order of the Prince Regent Heungseon (Heungseon Daewongun). The palace the Prince Regent created was markedly different from the original. Some 500 buildings were built on a site of over 691,921 square meters and constituted a small city. The architectural principles of ancient China were harmonically incorporated into both the tradition and the appearance of the Joseon royal court.

Gyeongbokgung Palace was largely torn down during the Japanese occupation. Almost all the restored buildings were dismantled. Gwanghwamun Gate was removed, and an enormous building housing the Japanese Government-General was constructed in front of the main sector of the palace.

Only the following ten original buildings remained:

Geunjeongjeon Hall (Throne Hall)
Gyeongheoru Pavilion (Royal Banquet Hall)
Hyangwonjeong Pavilion (loose English translation ‘Pavilion of far-Reaching Fragrance’)
Jagyongjeon Hall (Queen’s residence)
Jibokjae Hall (loose English translation ‘Hall of collecting Jade’, King Gojong’s private library)
Sajeongjeon Hall (used by the king for executive meetings with high-ranking officials)
Sujeongjeon Hall (for use by the cabinet of the Joseon dynasty).

An effort to fully restore Gyeongbokgung Palace to its former glory has been ongoing since 1990. The colonial Government-General building was removed, and Heungnyemun Gate was restored to its original state. Gwanghwamun Gate as well as the residences of the king, queen and the crown prince were restored to their original state.

Additionally, the palace premises became home to the National Folk Museum of Korea and the National Palace Museum of Korea.

Historical timeline for Gyeongbokgung

1395 Original Palace Build completed
1592-1598 Japanese invasion & destruction of palace
1867 Begin of palace reconstruction by Prince Regent Heungseon Daewongun
1895 Emperor Gojong leaves the palace. He would be the last member of the Imperial Family to reside there
1911 The Empire of Japan’s colonial government systematically demolishes all but 10 buildings that form part of the palace
1926 Construction of Japanese Government-General Building
1963 Gyeongbokgung is designated as a cultural property
1990 Begin of 40-year initiative to restore hundreds of structures destroyed during the Japanese occupation
1996 Removal of Government-General Building
2001 Reconstruction of Heungnyemun Gate
2006-2010 Reconstruction of Gwanghwamun Gate (“Gate of Transformation by Light”)

After opening its doors to visitors, Gyeongbokgung quickly became one of the most famous tourist attractions in South Korea.

While I immensely enjoyed visiting Gyeongbokgung, I do hope to one day have the chance to take a look at the other palaces as well.

Safe travels,

Cee

Strolling around Seoul, South Korea

Trip to South Korea – Part 9: Two Weeks

During our two-week stay in South Korea, we enjoyed exploring areas around town for scenic views and – of course – places to eat. Seoul is truly a place where historical buildings and modern architecture coexist in harmony.

The Bosingak Bell Pavilion (located a short walk away from Gwanghwamun Plaza) was originally constructed in 1396 and used to keep the time during the Joseon dynasty.

Visit to South Korea — ***Charcoal Boiled Beef***

Seoul sightseeing — **Time to practice your Korean reading skills. Who can spot the Noraebang (Korean Karaoke room)?**

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After a day at Namsan Tower we took the train back to our hotel. There were several exits near our hotel and this evening we took the wrong one, ending up on an unfamiliar corner. We weren’t too worried though since we knew our hotel had to be nearby somewhere. Across the street we spotted a Café Bene.

No self-respecting K-drama fan would pass up the chance to visit one of those. The café had a very nice atmosphere. And after noticing that our hotel was really just around the corner, you can bet this wasn’t our last visit.

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**Patbingsu, a famous Korean dessert consisting of shaved ice with different toppings. This one is a Oreo cookies and chocolate flavoured.**

Patbinsoo — This is a typical patbingsu: Shaved ice topped with red beans and ice cream and more red beans waiting for you at the bottom.

Another food highlight on our trip was when our local friends took us to a Chinese restaurant that served delicious Jajjangmyeon [noodles topped with black bean sauce and sautéed vegetables]. It appears we were so eager to eat the noodles that we forgot to take a picture before digging in. But I’m sure we have all seen our share of this dish watching K-dramas.

***Going for a ride on the Seoul Night Tour Bus is a perfect way to enjoy a look at the lit up city.***

**Lights are reflected on the water of the Han River [Hangang].**

**There is no shortage of bridges that run across the river.**

**Several of these bridges have their unique display of lights after dark, adding to their impressiveness.**

**In the background of this image one can make out the famous Namsan Tower.**

**This serene waterfall scene in downtown Seoul invites visitors to take a rest and relax.**

**Street performers can also be found here and greatly add to the overall atmosphere.**

**A close-up look at the statue of Admiral Yi at night time, located at Gwanghwamun Plaza.**

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**Seolleongtang (Beef Bone Soup) with a side of Kimchi, Cubed Radish, and -of course – rice.**

**Bibimbap (Rice topped with vegetables, and [if desired] a fried egg.**

**Korean BBQ is one of the most delicious food we have ever had.**

**Lettuce and perilla leaves make the perfect wrap for the meat and side dishes of a Korean BBQ.**

***And for dessert [or as a snack), Ice-cream.***

**These little-trucks-turned-kiosks could be found all over downtown Seoul at night. Perfect for a little treat!**

**There is many flavours of Soju to choose from. Some are very bitter while other are sweet. Be careful though of their alcohol content. [No drinking alcohol if you’re underage].**

**Soondae [Blood Sausage] taste a lot better than it’s name might suggests.**

**Many restaurants keep cutlery in boxes [or sometimes drawers] on each table and customers can just grab their own.**

**Kimbap is among the most well-known Korean dishes. It is also easy to make at home and ingredients can be substituted based on a person’s preferences.**

***Outside gyms like this one can be found all over.***

What are the food, places, and/or things you dream of when planning your Korea trip? We would love to hear from you.

Thank you for joining us on our trip down memory lane, while we reminisced about the multitude of experiences we were so fortunate to have during our South Korea adventure.

Signing off,

Cee and R.

‘Our 2015 South Korea Trip, Part 8: Korean Folk Village’

‘Our 2015 South Korea Trip, Part 1: A Kdrama Fan’s dream’

Korean Folk Village, Suwon, South Korea (Daytrip)

Trip to South Korea – Part 8: The King Of Dramas

The site is easily reached using public transport. Visitors can take the train from Seoul to the Suwon Station, Exit 4, and then use the provided free shuttle or pay for a taxi to take them the remainder of the way right to the front entry of the village. The drive will take approximately 30 minutes.

At the entrance of the village there is a map with key points to visit while you’re there.

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The extensive grounds of the Korean Folks Village are essentially a big park. Perfect for taking a stroll in while enjoying both nature, and the sights of historical architecture.

A museum also gives the visitor additional insights into daily life in a Korea of the past.

Miniature displays inside the museum depict typical daily activities in historical Korea.

Feel like getting in on the action?

There are multiple opportunities to do so at the Korean Folk Village.

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Several replicas of ancient workshops can be found all over.

Baskets with straps made from fabrics were commonly used to carry things over longer distances.

We spotted several staff around the village dressed as characters that would have been seen walking around in the old days.

A beautiful pavilion invites for a rest [and of course, a photoshoot].

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Houses with a stone base could be heated via build in fireplaces underneath the house.

Inside this room life size replicas depict a harmonious family scene.

The Korean Folk Village can lay claim to having been the filming site for many popular Korean dramas. This includes both historical and modern dramas, one them being the famous “My Love from a Star” starring Jun Ji-Hyun and Kim So-Hyun.

Hungry from all that exploring? No worries. An extensive food court provides ample choices and allows you to enjoy a delicious outdoors lunch.

Multiple seating areas strewn about in case you need to rest.

Visitors to the Korean Folk Village can imagine themselves as guests while enjoying a historical wedding re-enactment. (Is anyone else getting strong “Goong” vibes from these pics?)

Exploring Suwon

As I went through these pictures I remembered that we had been looking for this particular entrance but couldn’t find it. The place is called Paldalmun (팔달문), which is one of the entrance gates to the Hwaseong Fortress. In our very limited Korean we asked a woman where it was. As soon as she started to use words such as 왼쪽 (oenjjok) “left” and 오른쪽 (oreunjjok) “right”, we knew we had arrived at the barrier that was language. So, we followed her hand gestures instead. She was very friendly and we were able to find our entrance to the fortress after all.

A steadfast reminder of ancient times, these structures stand in stark contrast to the modern world surrounding them today. Impressive in size and architectural design, they are a sight to behold.

A little stream flanked by paths allows for a relaxing (or perhaps romantic?) walk. It also provides a perfect backdrop for some beautiful pictures. (Time to break out that selfie stick once again.)

Several of these plates can be found embedded into the sidewalks on the streets of Suwon. This particular one is dedicated to the Banghwasuryujeong Pavilion (a World Heritage Site).

Cee and R.

‘Our 2015 South Korea Trip, Part 7: Gyeongbokgung Palace’

‘Our 2015 South Korea Trip, Part 9: Random Food And Strolling’

Gyeongbokgung Palace & Gwanghwamun Plaza, Seoul, South Korea

Trip to South Korea – Part 6: Jewel Of The Palace

The Gyeongbokgung Palace & Gwanghwamun Plaza are located in central Seoul, and a popular spot for locals and tourists alike.

Gwanghwamun Plaza

Gwanghwamun Plaza – often referred to as Gwanghwamun Square – is easily accessible since the main subway station lies directly underneath it.

Two huge statues stand over seeing the plaza as if keeping watch over everyone passing by.

Gyeongbokgung Palace and Gwanghwamun Plaza

Firstly, there is a statue of King Sejong sitting on his throne placed on top of a massive pedestal. King Sejong – or Sejong the Great – is best remembered for his invention of Hangul, the written Korean alphabet used today. [A/N: Anyone learning the Korean written language will have undoubtedly come across this name before.]

However, the 15th century Korean monarch is also considered to have been involved in the promotion of agriculture, literature, science and technology.

Secondly, there is a statue dedicated to Admiral Yi Sun-Sin, a 16th century Korean war hero. [A/N: K-drama buffs interested in historical dramas might recognize this name, since they tend to make frequent mention of it.]

Towards one end of the plaza one can already see from afar the massive main entrance into the Gyeongbokgung Palace, known as Gwanghwamun Gate.

Sejongno, a busy multiple-lane road separates Gwanghwamun Gate, the palace and the impressive wall surrounding it from the plaza.

For the better part of each day, one can find several guards dressed in traditional royal garb standing guard in front of the gate.

Gyeongbokgung Palace

While walking through the gates, don’t forget to look up and admire the meaningful paintings and drawings on the ceilings.

In a Russian Doll sort of way, the king’s quarters are located at the innermost center of the palace grounds. Several sturdy walls form each layer around his throne room and can only be accessed through these big inner gates.

In the past, each gate would be heavily guarded by the Royal Guards and might even be kept closed the majority of the time.

This close-up of one of the multiple gates showes the intricate architecture and colourful designs on it. Any reconstruction over the years has been made using the same materials used originally wherever possible.

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Detailed maps located inside the grounds are a great help for all visitors to not loose their way around the massive palace complex. In addition, English tours are available throughout most of the day. We personally were very pleased with our nice guide, her knowledge of the place, and the pace at which she proceeded throughout the tour.

Hyangwonjeong Pavilion (loose English translation ‘Pavilion of far-Reaching Fragrance’) is a small, hexagonal, two-story pavilion situated on a island in the middle of a pond. A bridge connects the island and the pavilion to the rest of the palace grounds. The bridge is known as Chwihyanggyo which loosely translates as “bridge intoxicated with fragrance”. Due to its fragile state, the bridge has been closed off for public access. Even though close-ups of the pavilion are therefor not possible, this does not diminish its serene beauty.

[A/N: Coex Aquarium has a miniature replica of this pavilion on display.]

The Queen and Queen Dowager (Mother of the king) would each reside in their own separate quarters towards the back of the palace grounds. For added protection and privacy, their residences were enclosed with a lower wall, some of which doubled as the outside walls of a building.

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This small metal door allows for a fire to be build underneath the building inside its stone base. This will in turn provide floor heating to the rooms above. Underground tunnels leading to chimneys away from the building would make sure the smoke could escape safely.

[A/N: Although obviously upgraded to a more modernized version, floor heating systems are still a common thing in Korean homes.]

Most of the buildings found today within the Gyeongbokgung Palace grounds had to be reconstructed since having been destroyed by enemies in the past. Four hexagon shaped chimneys built in 1869 are some of the few original structures still standing. Hiding their purpose behind a artfully disguised tower-like design, they were made to blend in as part of the Amisan Garden.

The Gyeongheoru Pavilion (Royal Banquet Hall) is a two-story pavilion used in the past for huge parties hosted by the king.

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Walking among these old historical buildings truly makes one feel transported into another world. Specially if you’re into Korean historical dramas, this place makes you expect one of these drama characters to appear at any moment.

Maybe this is where one could meet our favourite Woodalchi General, Choi Young [Drama The Great Doctor], or Crown Prince/King Lee Hwon [Drama Moon embracing the sun].

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An inside look at some rooms complete with a traditional table set-up.

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Below are some close-ups of the kings throne room and seat. Even after all this time the opulence and magnificence of the room is obvious. As a result, one can easily imagine the impression this room must have made on people in the past upon setting their eyes on it for the first time.

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Nearby rental shops provide the opportunity to dress up in historical costumes when visiting the palace grounds. One can generally also expect a discount or sometimes even free entry into the place when wearing traditional Korean clothing.

During the Joseon Dynasty, Royal Guards were responsible for guarding the palace gates and protecting the King while he resided at Gyeongbokgung. Twice each day, staff will reenact the ‘Changing of the Royal Guard’ ceremony. As the name suggests, this event depicts the protocol these guards had to follow as a new unit took over their posts.

We recommend looking online beforehand to ensure you get to experience this ceremony as it is a sight to behold.

Only after gaining access through several gates one would get to enter the innermost patio. This is the location of the kings residence. While his living chambers are towards the rear of the building, the throne hall is at the front. Here the king would give an audience to anyone considered worthy of his time.

Final advice: Allow yourself plenty of time for this adventure. Exploring the extensive Gyeongbokgung Palace grounds can easily take a few hours, and is not something you’ll want to rush through.

Cee and R.

‘Our 2015 South Korea Trip, Part 6: Busan’

‘Our 2015 South Korea Trip, Part 8: Korean Folk Village’

Travel Adventures In Busan, South Korea’s Major Port City

Trip to South Korea – Part 6: Train to Busan

The plan for our Busan travel adventures consisted of a weekend trip, in the company of a local friend. However, unforeseen circumstances caused those plans to fall to the wayside two weeks before our trip.

Since we three sisters were in agreement that we did not want to miss out on seeing the city – which is home to South Korea’s major shipping port – we decided to still go but make it a day trip instead.

Once in Busan, we were going to buy a ticket to their daily tour buses. There are 3 routes with different stops along the way. Each route interlopes with the other at some point, so you have a wider array of choices for places to go to.

With the help from our trusty Subway app, we were able to plan ahead on how to get to the Central Train Station early in the morning in order to catch the earliest Bullet train to Busan.

The plan was solid, the execution not so much. Due to missing the first train out, we arrived in Busan much later than planned.

The train ride from Seoul to Busan only takes about 3 hours. During the trip one can take a comfortable rest while enjoying the beautiful scenery of Korea’s countryside passing by.

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***Once you exit the Busan Train Station (top), you are greeted by a park (below) complete with sprinklers, flower beds and uniquely designed decorations.***

Because of our delayed arrival in Busan, all seats on the first tour bus were taken, and we had to take the second bus. This cost us at least 90 minutes of precious time that could have otherwise been used to explore the city some more.

We were equipped with tickets in the form of wristbands, and brochures detailing the different routes.

There are stops set up along the way and the brochure lists the attraction at each stop and how frequent a bus will come by each stop.

Once you pick which of the attractions you would like to visit, you get off the bus at the selected stop and explore at your own leisure.

When you are ready to move on, you simply take the next bus and continue the route.

Tour buses were also equipped with little devices (Audio Guide Systems) at each seat in case one wished to listen to a English explanation of attractions along the way.

We loved how organized yet informal this was and had a great time exploring Busan this way.

Beware of the time though if you are not one to enjoy impromptu adventures. The tour buses stop running at a certain time each day and you could get stranded along the way.

Especially on the smaller routes, tour buses stop running about midafternoon. After that, you will need to find your own way back to the main route to catch another tour bus.

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This happened to us since time management was obviously not our forte that day. I blame it on that and the fact that we were very intend on locating a tiny cute coffee place that we had been ~~stalking~~ looking at online.

Let me fill you in: We had figured out a general location/area where this coffee place was located and not an exact address. Minor details, right? Wrong! After getting off the bus too early we decided to walk. How far could it be, right?

It was a pretty walk where the sidewalk was made out of wooden boards. Since we were also close to the ocean there were some amazing viewpoints with benches to sit on and take a break. The entire boardwalk was shaded by trees and was quite beautiful.

For the first little bit we were doing okay. Soon though the uphill walk and the August heat started to take its toll. However, we continued on, hoping we would find the now seemingly elusive spot just over that next hill.

It was starting to feel like we were being taunted and it was hiding itself on purpose. There was no going back now. We had to find it!! **cue BTS ‘Not Today’**

At last, after cresting countless hills, we found it. We celebrated by taking pictures, getting something cold to drink, and staying for a 10 minute well deserved break.

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Speaking of which, let’s take a break from this story. Here are some of the stunning views we got to see during our travel adventures in Busan.

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Travel Aventures — Gwangandaegyo or Diamond Bridge

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Ok…back to our adventure.

Heading back downhill at a brisk pace, we were aware that we were cutting it close. However, we hoped to still make it in time for the last bus. Alas, it was not meant to be.

So there we were. In a foreign country who’s language we knew only very little of. It was late afternoon, and unless we planned to spend the night in Busan, we had to figure something out quickly to make it back to the Train station in time to catch a train back to Seoul.

We took out our tour bus brochure and to our relief found that the last bus on the main route had not yet completed its daily run. If we hurried we might just be able to intercept it at its’ nearest stop.

The delay in flagging down an empty cab turned this into even more of a nail biter. But at last we succeeded.

We communicated using a translating app, ferocious hand movements, pointing at names on our brochure and throwing broken bits of Korean into the mix. The friendly ‘Ahjussi’ cab driver nodded his understanding & confirmed by repeating the name of our destination.

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We made it in time to catch the tour bus back to the train station and were glad to get seats on the last train bound for Seoul that day. Even though it meant a 90 minute wait at the train station.

We passed the time looking at some shops and trying some supper items off the menu of one of the restaurants located inside the station.

It was well past midnight by the time we arrived back at our hotel in Seoul. Exhausted but without regrets that our visit to Busan had turned into more of an adventure than we planned for, we bid each other good night.

-Cee and R.

**Stunning night view from Busan Train station at a lit up Gwangandaegyo (Gwangan Bridge a.k.a. Diamond Bridge) in the distance.**

‘Our 2015 South Korea Trip, Part 5: Namsan Tower’

‘Our 2015 South Korea Trip, Part 7: Gyeongbokgung Palace’

Excursion to Namsan Tower & Jangchungdan Park, Seoul, South Korea

Trip to South Korea – Part 5: A Korean Odyssey

Namsan Tower

Namsan Tower, also known as N Seoul Tower, is a well-known landmark of Seoul, South Korea. As its name already indicates, the tower is located on Nam Mountain (san=mountain).

It is a 774 ft. (236 meter) tall communication and observation tower that was build between 1969 to 1971. In 1980 the tower was finally ready to be opened to the public.

Originally used for TV and Radio broadcasting across Seoul, it is currently broadcasting signals for major South Korean media outlets. Side note: The N stands for ‘New’, ‘Namsan’, and ‘Nature’.

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Featured in too many Korean dramas to mention them all here, it has become a familiar sight for K-drama fans across the world.

Namsan Tower is the place where Gu Jun-Pyo waited for Geum Jan-Di on their first date, and where they got locked in a cable car afterwards (Drama: Boys Before Flowers).

Some other notable more recent dramas with scenes at Namsan Tower are ‘The Legend of the blue sea’, ‘My Love from the star’, and ‘Hwayugi: A Korean Odyssey’.

In 2021, scenes for the third installment of the American movie franchise ‘To all the boys’ were filmed at this location as well.

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There are several ways to reach Namsan Tower. One can take the N Seoul Tower Cable car, board a shuttle bus, take the Seoul city tour bus, or hike up using the stairs.

Personally we recommend going with option one, two or three, unless you are looking for quiet the workout. Although I imagine taking the stairs would not altogether be a unpleasant adventure. If you have the time.

Taking the bus up Nam Mountain, you are dropped off on this platform with a viewpoint and small convenience store. A few picnic tables provide seating.

From there you walk the last little bit until you reach Namsan Tower.

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Namsan Tower during the day.

After sunset, the tower is illuminated for several hours depending on the time of year. If the air quality in Seoul is 45 or less, Namsan Tower lights up in a blue colour.

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In order to go up to the top of the tower to enjoy a 360 view of Seoul, one must purchase a ticket. Since there is only a limited number of people allowed at once, one might have to wait in line a bit to take the elevator. Staff operating said elevator make sure things run smoothly.

The ceiling of the elevator is essentially a giant screen making you feel like you’re looking up into the sky. This and the motion of the upwards moving elevator gives the impression of going straight up into the clouds.

The view below Namsan Tower including the bus drop-off platform.

Several Glass panels at the top of N Seoul Tower depict different historical maps. This one shows where the original wall around the capital used to be. Portions of this wall exist to this day.

Other panels show the distance from the tower to different major cities around the world.

View of the surrounding area below depends on time of day, weather, and air quality.

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To our delight, we were fortunate enough to actually come across a K-pop group while at the tower terrace.

Noticing some commotion nearby, we went to check it out and realized there was a performance by a boy band. We were too overwhelmed to think of taking many pictures. Instead we opted to simply enjoy the impromptu mini concert.

Not until we returned to our hotel later that night did we find out the identity of the boy band. It was the hip hop band JJCC, formed and managed by Jackie Chan Group Korea. We recommend checking them out, as we quite liked their songs.

Jangchungdan Park

Jangchungdan Park is located at the base of Nam Mountain and a perfect spot for a relaxed hangout. Complete with a small waterfall, a historical looking bridge, and several paths, it also makes for a ideal photoshoot backdrop.